DSLR Shoulder rig in action and Friction Follow Focus build

Build a Friction Follow Focus

Had some request to see my rig in action, and what it looks like up on a shoulder.  I have since added a follow focus and have a couple of additions coming up. I just ordered some carbon fiber rods to replace the fiberglass for a stiffer feel. Also adding a couple more sickspeed clamps to strengthen the connection from the camera mount to the shoulder mount. It holds up fine but I want to make it a bit more rigid.

DIY Shoulder Rig

Rig components include Canon 7D, Matte Box, LED light, Tascam DR-40, and Lilliput 668GL monitor.  Shoulder rig build videos.

The build for the Friction follow focus was designed  around the IKAN friction follow focus which runs about $199. Mine was about $50 at most. 

Friction Follow Focus Build Video 

Materials for the build:

4.5" piece of 1"x1/8" alum.

2" piece of 1" x1" alum bar.

(2) 1 7/8" banebot wheels

(2) 4mm banebot hubs

Hugo L 1:1 gearbox

(1) 1/4 - 20 thumb screw
SickSpeed Clamp (or some 15mm clamp if you have a real DSLR Rig)

Tools needed -

Drill and bits

small hacksaw

1/4 - 20 Thread Tap

Please leave comments or questions below. If you build your own rig, please share your link here! Thanks!

DIY DSLR Cage Rig

My DIY DSLR Cage 

I am building up my Video set up for filming and wanted to build a quality cage unit to hold my accessories like an LED light, Monitor, and mic with a matte box. I came across a build by Jarrod at Just Basl Productions. Originally I found it at CheesyCam.

I liked the design, so I decided to set out to build my own. I decided to go with an all-aluminum  rig. It's a beefy unit that is very stable. I have it set to hold all my accessories, and my 7D. The unit is just a 1/4 lb heavier than Jarrod's redesign to lighten from his original unit. So the weight is about 6lbs. I could have shed some weight in my design, but I like the really solid feel.

 I can go from a top hand hold position, to a side grip, to clicking it onto a tripod with no effort. The rig allows me to do low shots and see what I am filming with the monitor, and I can easily get to the chest level shot. In many cases, I will just pop it onto a tripod and film from there, but it offers easy switches of mobility. The unit was just under $90 with a $45 monfrotto slide plate. Without the monfrotto slide, the rig was only a $45 build.

I also can slide my camera from this rig to my DIY Shoulder Rig by releasing my monfrotto slide and sliding onto the one on my shoulder rig.  

Monfrotto 357 slide release

Ebay Matte Box

 If anyone wants the parts list, drop me a comment on my blog, and I will post it here. The build is pretty much like Jarrod's with modified parts. So you can check out his video at Vimeo for the how to build it section. I want to give credit where it is due. Thanks Jarrod for the great ideas.

I did add mini rails to his design so I could slide on a matte box. I don't currently have a high end matte box, but this works to cut the glare when working in sunny conditions like we have in Arizona. 

Parts List:

(1)Top Handle:  6.25"Long x 1" rnd tube

(4)crossbracing  10"Long x 1.25" x .75" Channel

(2)Inset Crosscracing: 10 Long x 1" square tube

(4)Handle posts: 8" high x 1"rnd Tube

(2)Risers for camera plate": 4.5" long x 1.25" x .75" Channel

(4)Feet: 2" long x 1" square

(1)Camera Plate: 3.5"x7" .25"thick

(2)Tubes for Matte box: 3.5"long x .5"round

(1) bottom plate for tripod plate 6.75" long x 1" x .25"thick

All of the above parts are Aluminum which can be found at a local metal supplier. Not available at home stores such as Home Depot or Lowes, but cheaper.

(2) 4.5"x.25" carriage bolts for Matte box tubes (2) .25" nuts

(4) 1.5"x.25" carriage bolts for camera plate (4) .25" nuts

(4) 3.5"x.375" carriage bolts for uprights

(4) 3.5"x.375" Standard bolts for uprights

(4) double ended threaded connectors .375" for uprights

(2) 1.25"x.25" bolts for bottom plate (2) .25" nuts

Manfrotto 577 quick release plate or Calumet Quick-release Video Head Adapter (both are the same)

Lilliput 668GL-70NP/H/Y 7" monitor review

Not bad price for an HDMI monitor. I purchased this unit to go on my DIY DSLR video rig. I am finding also great for Still photography when I am composing through live view. I have good eye sight, but this makes it easy for highly accurate focusing and viewing everything in your scene. It also makes it much easier to see problems in your composition. 

This unit came with the 7” monitor with HDMI input and composite inputs. It included a Li-ion battery, stand, hotshoe ball mount, remote, sun shade, and power cord. They also sent along an HDMI to HDMI mini to connect to my Canon 7D. This was not in the box, so I don’t know if you will get this from every company you order from. I ordered mine online from Amazon for $199 with free shipping and I got it in 3 days. I was pretty happy with the fast turn around.

Video

When I connect the unit to my tripod, I use a super clamp I have with an umbrella holder and the included ball joint. These are things I have, so I don’t have to spend $50+ on an Articulating Arm. This set up works fine for my needs. 

DIY DSLR Shoulder Rig

Fun DIY DSLR Shoulder Rig 


*Build videos now available at Vimeo and YouTube (see end of article)
*** DIY Follow Focus now added see video here! Includes Follow Focus Build Video.

I came across a DIY rig, named the Johan plug wire clamp rig. This was a setup I liked because it gave a feel of a true system at a cost effective price. You do compromise the standard 60mm clamps systems with 15mm carbon fiber, but you do get a usable rig for a fraction of the cost. I used red billet Wire clamps from E-bay made by SickSpeed. It required 8 sets and was probably the most expensive part of the build with an exception of the Monfrotto release plate. I also upgraded the system with a variable counterweight system, an added focusing clamp, and inexpensive matte box (doesn't except filters) more for cutting glare. the 9.5mm rods are fiberglass tent poles which I bought two sets. I am thinking of upgrading to solid aluminum, or carbon fiber which I found wasn't all that expensive.   Another rigs at the Cheesy Cam blog.

Video with equipment explaination

This was a fun little project, and suits my needs, until I am making the big bucks with video. But since I am not doing much video, at the moment, it does well. I have since added a 160 LED light to the rig and a Lilliput 7" monitor which you can see in the video, as well as a second focusing clamp to the zoom control on the lens.

Rig with Monfrott release plate, clamp on focus ring, matte box, and Hoodman loupe.

Parts:
2 (12 piece sets) SickSpeed clamps - $60 Ebay
2 sets 9.5 tent poles - $18 dept store or sporting goods store
357 Monfrotto release $45 b&h
Misc. hardware $8 home depot (2 - 5m/40mm screws and 2 - 5m/25mm screws + 6 - 5m locking nuts)
Matte Box $35 Ebay - **this only fit about a 72mm lens
Weights $6 (custom welded holder) sporting goods store
padded shoulder support $3 (Custom fabricated)



(Lilliput 7" monitor $199, 160 LED dimmable light $50)

total about $185

$2,231 with 7d, rode mic, hoodman loupe, and a 16gb Cf card. Roughly the price of just a pro rig, but with this one you get the camera!

Build videos available at Vimeo and YouTube. 4 videos for the entire build.

Build Video #1

Build Video #2

Build Video #3

Build Video #4

(New Updated Shoulder Rest)

Shooting that 8x10 format on your 7D

Ever thought how much easier it would be if you could just have a sensor shaped like a 8x10 or similar format? Well not really, but if you are shooting images which you plan to crop for a 8x10 print, take the time to use the provided grid in your 7D's viewfinder.  It will help get your images, so you won't lose information on the cropping end. If you are using Lightroom, and you want to crop a bunch of images to 8x10, and you use this grid to line up you composed shot, then you can synchronize the Crop throughout your images.

 In the image shown, we have Charlie centered just in between the top Black line and bottom black line of the grid you would see in your viewfinder. If you can keep your composition within those lines you will have a little extra for the top and bottom for crop adjustment. This would hold true to be left and right in a landscape shot. The red lines represent the 8x10 format.  This set up will also help you get formats such as 4x5, and 16x20. If you are like me and like to frame with Mats on the cheap, you need to crop your images to standard sizes. You can have your mat cut to any shape you want. However, to save yourself time and money,  just take advantage of the grid in the 7D. Before, I really thought about how the grid in my viewfinder related to an 8x10 shot, I ended up cropping out stuff I wanted, or had to remove things I didn't want in post production. Keep life simple. Get it right in the shot the first time.

Any other Cameras with the Grid? My 40D which was the camera I had before my current Canon 7D does not have the grid. Not sure which other Canons have this feature, and not sure about other Brands that do. If people have a Nikon, Sony or whatever with this feature, how does your grid relate to an 8x10 image? We would love you to post, if your camera has this feature and how it works for you.

Canon 35mm F/2 on the Trail

Panoramic, ISO 160, f2.8(mistake) 1/1600 (Pay attention to your settings)

Ok, after finally taking this lens out for a test run, I was happy with the results. I like the feel of a "normal" lens.  I have a 50mm, which a lot of photographers have. Mine is a f1.4. However, I run a ASP-C sensor, so what is normal on say a 5D or a 35mm is not on the cropped sensor.  And like many who shoot with an ASP-C you might think it looks pretty normal to you.  As a 7D owner, and previous owner of a 40D, 20D, and a Rebel 300D, you get use to the focal length of your lenses and until you switch to a full frame, you are always at a loss, without really knowing it. So I decide after an article I read about shooting panoramic images with a normal lens, to find a truer  normal for my ASP-C camera.  (For about the search and options for a normal lens: http://zehphotoblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/going-normal-with-35mm-lens-on-7d-for.html)

ISO 160, f2.8(mistake) 1/800

So I took this out on the trail into the Superstition mountains, in Arizona.  I took a variety of landscape images, including a panoramic. Now I did have to hand hold the panoramic so the results are not that great, mainly because I usually shoot a panoramic on a tripod, with a Nodal Ninja. On this day I didn't bring my extra equipment. I was hiking with some new people, and I didn't want them to have to stop for me, or for me to lose my group as it was my first experience on this trail (Hieroglyphics Trail.) Next time, I will go out on my own, since I know the hike, but temps are already getting ready to hit the mid 90's two weeks into March.  This hike starts in the desert, so the heat factor with added equipment rather sucks. Lucky that day was only in the low 70's but the next day was already jumping into the 80's. (Spring in Arizona, is actually springing from the 70's to the 100's in like 2 to 3 weeks) Anyway, I digress.  So I did take a number of photos, mainly with my newly converted 40D IR. The shots were stunning (ok that's my opinion, but many others thought they were great too.)  I shot a couple of compositions I really liked, but I was rushing and not paying attention to my f/stop which I had at 2.8. Duh! Not good when you want a large depth of field in a landscape shot.  Nevertheless, if it wasn't for my screw up this was a champ for a lens.  

ISO 160, f8(much better) 1/250

The lens makes a little noise, but overall not enough to scare anything off. It focuses quick and accurately. And if you are looking for a decent, fast, and Normal lens for an ASP-C sensor-ed camera, I would definitely recommend this one.  If you can afford the high end version which is the 35mm f/1.4 for $1400, go for it, but if you want something in at about $310, I would jump on this one.

ISO 160, f/8, 1/200

I often will shoot at 160 instead of 100, due to Canon's slightly off ISO's seem to be there prime ISO's which get a little better quality from what I have read.

Going normal with a 35mm lens on a 7D for Panoramic images.

Searching for the perfect "Normal" Lens for a ASP-C camera under $400.

Salt River Area outside of Phoenix, Arizona. 

I just got my new Canon 35mm f/2 lens from Canoga Camera. First let me say, if you are anywhere west of the Mississippi, I would recommend them over B&H or Adorama (unless you are in California, and you are trying to avoid Taxes). They are in California and you will usually receive it in half the time, and their pricing is competitive. They will charge for shipping, but I have asked them for free shipping, and they obliged.

Now I am an avid panoramic photographer, who does both IR and HDR panoramic images. And as many people who love to learn, I research everywhere I can. I explore everywhere, whether on the net or reading magazines.  While reading Outdoor Photographer in the new March issue, I came across an article about Brandon Riza's panoramic photography and his techniques. I usually shoot many of my panoramic images with a 10-22mm canon EF-S Lens, and still will when I am doing spherical Panos. Riza makes the case for using a normal lens for panoramic images, to get more of the viewer sight of the subject. He is running a 50mm on a 5DmkII. The wide angle far away aspect, so I decided for a landscape panoramic I would go as normal as possible. I started by looking as lenses that would be most "normal" for a 1.6 APS-C sensor. I came across three options that were in my budget under $400.

 I first started with a Sigma 30mm f1.4, which is closest to Normal (50mm) which comes in at about 48mm. This lens is designed specifically for APS-C cameras and does not fit full frame cameras. I found it at Adorama for around $440. I like how fast this lens is. However, after reading up, as much as I could, it seems for many (not all) that this lens has some focus issues. After I had seen this was somewhat a common issue I decided to pass, though I liked it came with a hood. I also read it's a great lens if you use Manual focus, where then it is sharp. The Auto focus on this lens is said to be quiet.       

   

My second choice was a move to the Canon 28mm f/2.8, a bit slower lens than the Sigma 30mm. This image is about 45mm with the ASP-C sensor.  This lens would allow me to use it on a full frame if I ever upgraded my camera. The build quality on this lens feels less than that of the Sigma, but at a price tag of only $259.00. Many positive reviews of this lens, but something that popped up in many reviews, was that there was sharpness  loss toward the edges of the image. I wanted to find something that could have as much sharpness as possible, since I do stitching of images.  So I decided to search some more.  

Finally, I checked out the Canon 35mm f/2.  This lens's drawback is that the lens doesn't have a USM motor, so it's not quiet when in auto focus.  If you are in a room with noise, it is not a problem. However, if you are in a room that is silent, this noise will stick out. But for my needs, that is not an issue. This lens runs at 56mm on the ASP-C sensor. So out of the three lenses, it's the least normal, but within the range, so I could handle the small difference. The best thing I read in most reviews, is that this lens is sharp across the entire image. This lens is also faster than the 28mm f/2.8. Furthermore, I read the color from this lens is in addition, better than the canon 28mm. At $305 from Canoga Camera, I thought this is the lens for me. Being in Arizona, it got here in two days. Better than the week or more it takes from B&H or Adorama.  I do like both those store, but sometime I just can't wait to play.  

The people at Canoga Camera were helpful and gave me free shipping when I asked, because I told them I would prefer to shop with them. Mainly, because the wait for being located on the west side of the US becomes too long, when everything seems to come out of NY. I will write a review of the 35mm f/2 once I take it out for a good test run. So check back in later if this lens interests you for Panoramic or general photography. If you are interested in knowing some specifics on this lens, drop a question or interest in the comments, and I will do what I can to answer your question.

PART: 2 Canon 35mm on the Trail