Cheap Nodal Rail Alternative for Panoramic Photography

Fotomate - Pro panoramic images on the Cheap for beginners.

As one who teaches workshops on Panoramic photography, I am always looking for alternatives for people who can't afford a $350 Panoramic system like a Nodal Ninja. I have been looking at Nodal Rails by a couple of companies as alternatives to a complete system and have found two; however, both are still out of the affordable range. The Kirk is running at about $110 and the Acratect for $199. Then I came across a Macro rail for focusing in Macro Photography. And it hit me this was an inexpensive solution for Landscape Panoramic images. I knew it would be limited; although it would work for people beginning to explore Panoramic photography. 

 **If you are unfamiliar with no Parallax point or what many call the nodal point see the video below. The reason to set your camera up for this is to help the Panoramic software, stitch your images seamlessly. If you don't, often you can get errors, especially in large complex images. This setup will help in getting that seamless 360 degree (horizontal) image. For 360 degree (spherical type) Panoramic images you will need a system similar to a Nodal Ninja.   

The Fotomate Macro Rail works well to adjust for your No Parallax point, also know by many as the Nodal point, though that terminology is being pushed away by Pros as they are not the same thing. By mounting your camera to the macro rail you can easily adjust for the No Parallax point with a turn of an adjustment screw. This $20 unit is actually easier to dial in than my Nodal Ninja system, which was about $350. Granted I have a great deal of flexibility with my more expensive system, however there are many times I shoot in landscape and can easily get away with the easier set up of the rail system. The video below shows how to set up the rail for the No parallax point. It should work fine with most wide angle to short telephoto lenses. I recommend shooting Panoramic images with either a ultra wide angle or preferred normal lens, like a 50mm on a full frame camera or about a 35mm on a cropped sensor. Above the rail is shown with my 10-22mm on a 40D. Works great with my 7D as well. 

The Fotomate Macro Rail can be found on e-bay. I got my for under $20 with shipping included. This unit is really well made. All metal, with metal thumb screws. Solid and no plastic parts. The side facing away in the above shot has two thumb screws, one for adjusting, and another to lock the cameras position. The side of the rail shown above, has measured increments which you could use to easily reset you camera, the next time you are out shooting. Just make sure you find the No parallax point for each lens you use and if you use a different camera body check those too. Also always level you camera before shooting Panoramic images as you will end up cropping out a great deal if your camera shoots on a downward or upward angle.

Hugin Panoramic Software (Freeware Review)

Hugin Panoramic Software

I have been doing panoramic images for sometime mainly in HDR. The two softwares I have had access to have been AutoPano and PTGui. Both have their advantages. However, this is not so much about those softwares for creating panoramic images. As someone who teaches a variety of workshops, including that for panoramic photography, I thought I should sample software which students could get for free, as with the current economic conditions don’t allow for many to purchase a lot of software. So in my search I came across Hugin Panoramic software.  

If you are familiar with PTGui, Hugin is not a long stretch to learn. The interface looks very similar. It’s as simple as selecting your images, entering the focal length, and the crop factor of your camera. Click align, then create panoramic. Granted, this is if your images have the detail to create control points, which will easily connect the images. If not you will have to go through and add control points. This was, in my opinion, easier than the PTGui interface, and quite straight forward. After you have them aligned you can go to the output to let Hugin know what you are looking for, like a Tiff or Jpg or HDR (which needs work).

Most of my Panoramic images are in HDR. I did have a host of issues, which have never really been a problem with PTGui. I just found I had to process them differently. In PTGui, I stitch together all my HDR images then I tonemap the entire Panoramic. I found the software just kept giving me errors and with no result. So I decided to tonemap the individual images with the same settings then went to PTGui to stitch the Tonemapped Tiff together. Finally, after several hours of not getting anywhere stitching HDR images, this method worked, despite what the software was said to be capable of. It did a fairly good job, just on area in my Panoramic was a little ghosting. I figure with a little more time in making adjustments to the area with the ghosting to check the control points, I might have been able to fix it.  

For free software, Hugin works fairly well and is very close in style to PTGui. If you started out with Hugin, and you found that you wanted to upgrade to a $220 software because you become a panoramic photographer, the learning curve is small. If you were to switch to something like AutoPano, the software is a bit different in the interface. I did use the 64 bit version of Hugin, as the 32 bit crashed pretty quickly. However, I was pushing it with large HDR images, which didn’t have the best contrast. After the images were tonemapped for HDR the software has an easy time finding control points.  

You have to play with the software to get a feel for it, but I would definitely recommend it for those who want to save on Panoramic software. I will be making sure all my workshop students use it if they don’t have access to PTGui or AutoPano.  I will be reviewing some Free HDR software soon  for other workshops I create. As I know software accessibility for some is very limited. I have been finding open source software, which I have been very impressed by. If you have recommendations for any open source software, please leave a comment.  

Furthermore, I would like to let people know who teach workshops, that there is a brand-new  website for posting creative workshops. They are giving away free posting to the first 50 people that contact them directly then they offer a trial of $10 for 6 months which then goes to $15 per month to continue to post. They are looking to build their workshop listing as it is a brand-new  site. I paid the $10 for six months to help pay for the work for them to post. I believe in Donating to a good thing, including Open source software. It can take up to 48 hours to post your workshop, but the great thing is, they don’t take a cut of what you charge for a workshop. I have done tutoring, where the tutoring company takes 40%, ouch! Check them out at ArtsAZ.com. If your cities is not listed, they will add it. 

Food Photography with Penny De Los Santo - Another Free Webinar

Ok, I always seem to get this out as it happens. I thought this week I would post it early, so people who would like to see a free weekend Seminar on food photography can catch it. I am a big fan of Photographer Chase Jarvis and his brain child CreativeLIVE. They have Free weekend webinars,  where you can learn so much from industry pros. I have learned so much on different topics which I have had an interest in and have never explored. Furthermore, as a self taught photographer you can miss effects along the way, and these Webinars have filled in the gaps for me. All of these webinars are free. You can purchase the weekend webinar which allows you to download the full three days so you can review it repeatedly.  I have purchased two myself as I wanted to get the full three days, but couldn't sit through them as I had prior obligations. However, I can pull them up anytime I want. If you do end up purchasing a webinar, do it before the actual one end if you can as it will save you $50.

May 13 begins the latest one Food Photography with Penny De Los Santos. Another Webinar I think would be fascinating. I personally have wanted to do food photography as I and most people have a complete love for food. These webinars, go through the how to, tip and tricks, and what to know when you are doing the photography of food. If you already do some food photography, this may give you other great ideas and perspectives you haven't thought of.

If anything, I think Photographers should make contact with the CreativeLIVE site, so that they can get free educational courses, on things that may interest them. They always have something new and interesting coming up, and if you are like me, a person who loves to learn. This may just be for you. 

Click here for the CreativeLIVE  Calendar for future free Webinars.

Shooting that 8x10 format on your 7D

Ever thought how much easier it would be if you could just have a sensor shaped like a 8x10 or similar format? Well not really, but if you are shooting images which you plan to crop for a 8x10 print, take the time to use the provided grid in your 7D's viewfinder.  It will help get your images, so you won't lose information on the cropping end. If you are using Lightroom, and you want to crop a bunch of images to 8x10, and you use this grid to line up you composed shot, then you can synchronize the Crop throughout your images.

 In the image shown, we have Charlie centered just in between the top Black line and bottom black line of the grid you would see in your viewfinder. If you can keep your composition within those lines you will have a little extra for the top and bottom for crop adjustment. This would hold true to be left and right in a landscape shot. The red lines represent the 8x10 format.  This set up will also help you get formats such as 4x5, and 16x20. If you are like me and like to frame with Mats on the cheap, you need to crop your images to standard sizes. You can have your mat cut to any shape you want. However, to save yourself time and money,  just take advantage of the grid in the 7D. Before, I really thought about how the grid in my viewfinder related to an 8x10 shot, I ended up cropping out stuff I wanted, or had to remove things I didn't want in post production. Keep life simple. Get it right in the shot the first time.

Any other Cameras with the Grid? My 40D which was the camera I had before my current Canon 7D does not have the grid. Not sure which other Canons have this feature, and not sure about other Brands that do. If people have a Nikon, Sony or whatever with this feature, how does your grid relate to an 8x10 image? We would love you to post, if your camera has this feature and how it works for you.

Foundations of a Working Photographer with Zack Arias - Another great CreativeLive Webinar.

I have now watched most of the first of three days of this great webinar. I have been shooting for 10 years and never really had any Photo classes.  Yes, self taught. However, as a self taught, we get selective on what we read and sometimes miss those important technical aspects that they may cover in a College Photography class, but really don't know if they do. Zack brings all your fuzziness around most aspects of Photography into a focused view. Day one is knowing your Camera, your Lens and Subject. I have clarified things I was a bit unsure of, but you don't think about until you are in the moment.  

If you have a chance catch the next two days. If you miss the free webinar, they offer a download after it's complete for $149.00. However, if you wanted to know all the important aspects of Photography, and you didn't want to sit through a whole semester of classes, then this is for you. And it would be cheaper than that class at the local university. Check it out and if not check out the next Free CreativeLive Webinar!

He really doesn't come across like he does in this Video Trailer. Actually very down to Earth. 

Zack's Blog: http://www.zarias.com/

Zack's Website: http://zackarias.com/

Zack's Workshops: http://zackarias.com/workshop/

CreativeLIVE Webinar (FREE): tomorrow 10-5 (Saturday April 30 & Sunday May 1 )

The Photographer - A Snap Shot of David McCourt

I came across David McCourt's work while reading about his Slow Photography Camera on another website. After doing a little research, I found David's photo work and liked his  style. I thought people should get to know a little more about the man behind the Slow Photography Camera, which he is starting to make a name for himself. So I decided to contact David to let him know I was posting another blog on his Slow Photography Camera, but to also point out his photography work.  He had a number of images that drew me in with his ominous style. After chatting back and forth with this Scotland based photographer, he was happy to give me a little more insight into his work, back ground and the equipment he uses. I see a lot of talent out there, but most you just see the end product. I like to get into the person behind the camera. 

TZ:  David I know you are making a name of yourself through your Slow Photography Camera, but you are a talented photographer too. Did you go to school for design or photography, and where did you go?


DM: I have studied product design for the past 5 years, first of all at The Glasgow Metropolitan College for 2 years and then at Duncan of Jordanston College of Art and Design, University of Dundee. I never picked up a 'real' camera until about 2 years ago, but it just seems like photography and product design go hand in hand with one another, so I bought my first camera and taught myself everything I know.

TZ:     What influenced moved you into your career field?:


DM: I've always been a total gadget geek, with a tip of the cap to art and design. Studying product design, first at school and then higher education felt like the right move. As for that first influential 'spark', I can honestly say I've no idea where it came from. I just had a knack for concept development. If anything, I've been more influenced to STAY in the field as the years of education have gone by. I always work closely with other great designers in my class, bouncing ideas off of one another. I've had several brilliant lecturers and some esteemed mentors to boot. Dr. Jon Rogers, head of Product Design and Pete Thomas my year head at Dundee are possibly the smartest men I've ever met.


TZ: In your photography, what excites you or what do you gravitate in photographing?


DM: I get a lot of influence from books that I've read or movies that I have seen. I done a whole photography project based on 'American Psycho' by Brett Easton Ellis. I love picking movies or photo-set ups apart and figuring out just how they done it.
You might notice that the majority of my work is quite dark, and if not dark, very moody and ominous. I'm a bit of a horror fanboy, so keep your eyes peeled for even more dark shoots!

TZ: Is there a type of photography you wouldn’t do and why?


DM: One of my best friends is a very talented lifestyle photographer who visits families and takes lovely family photos; candid shots of parent's children etc. I just don't see myself in his shoes, but I appreciate the fact that he has the patience to do those kind of shots. Maybe he's just more friendly than I am.


TZ: How would you describe your own style?


DM: I've been asked this a lot lately... it's hard not to sound like a pretentious moron when answering, but I don't think that is avoidable. I like to think I incite a lot of drama and ominous overtones in my photography: I'm an ominous photographer. Don't mess with me, I have a big heavy Manfrotto!


TZ:  How does your design influence your Photography and vice versa?


DM: Having trained as a Product Designer, I think I take in to consideration all the little details more than your average photographer would. I was a designer before I was a photographer, and taught myself how to use Photoshop (my earliest package was Photoshop 6, those were the days!). This aids both my design and my photography obviously. As for photography influencing my design work, it's quite apparent: I love photography, therefore I design for the art. It gives me the most pleasure being able to use my design outcomes in something that I am very passionate about.

TZ:    What type of Camera(s) do use, what are your favorite lenses to use, What do you use for lighting when you do a shoot?


DM: I do things on the cheap. I have a second hand Canon 30D which has served me very well. I use Canon's 50mm f/1.8 MKII for the majority of things along with Sigma's 10-20 f/4-5.6. The Sigma is my newest lens and I can't wait to use it more often. It's a monster of a thing and sharp as a pin (something that the 30D can sometimes struggle with).
As for lighting, like I said, I do things on the cheap. I have two Yongnuo YN640 Speedlites which I trigger with YN CTR-301Ps. I know guys who own Canon 430/580 Speedlites and have no idea how to use them correctly. The good thing about the Yongnuo brand is that they are pretty much fully manual. You need to teach yourself metering and all the little nuances that come with portable lighting.
When lighting a shoot on location, I'll use beauty dishes, shoot through/bounce umbrellas and softboxes, all of which have been modded to fit my speedlites.


TZ: Since you are a Designer are you a DIY’er with some of your photo equipment and what have you built for yourself.


DM: This is possibly my favourite part of lighting set up; making your own kit. It's very easy to buy all the equipment you need off of eBay, but from my experience, it doesn't bloody fit!
I've made two beauty dishes that work great even at nighttime. On top of that, as I mentioned I've modded pretty much all of my lighting kit to my own specification. I've even created new kit for certain shoots because I knew that I would have had to. Lighting is so important when shooting bands or artists, and no two band shoot will be the same or even similar. That's why customisation is important. You wouldn't keep your camera setting the same for every photoshoot you do, so why keep your lighting rig the same?


TZ: How did the Slow Photography project come about and what are your intentions for it?


DM: I was exploring the relationship between analogue and digital photography in our modern digital climate. At first, I thought that analogue was a dying art that only the purists payed heed to. But after extensive research, talking to photographers from all corners of the world and immersing myself in darkroom photography, I soon found out how much joy analogue photography has to offer.
With this in mind, I took in to consideration the processes and methods that analogue photography birthed, that digital photography has adopted. Composition, framing, the film output, aligning shots in TLR camera format, gauging light... all of these things could be applied to digital photography. All of these methods can be applied to digital photography on your mobile phone. Why not?

People, especially young people, are being exposed to the world of photography via the camera built in to their mobile phone. While this is not a bad thing (the iPhone has become the second most used camera in the community of Flickr), the traditional processes and practice are being forgotten in lieu of applications such as 'Hipstamatic' doing them all for you.
The point I raise with my Slow Photography camera is that there is a definite mid-point between taking photographs on your iPhone or mobile phone (and calling yourself a photographer) and using a professional grade DSLR. The Slow Photography camera fits that mid-point to let people experience the processes and choices they will have to make once they buy their first DSLR.

I think David's work is something to keep an eye on, whether it's his photography or Design. More can be found at his website www.dmccourt.com.The images in this article are the property of David McCourt and were used only with his expressed permission.

We are always looking for new and upcoming photographers to write a feature story on. Please send us a link to your website, a friend, or someone whose work you admire. If they are selected, they must be willing to allow us to post their images on our site with credit to them and agree to a short interview. Please email to tony@photzeh.com.

Slow Photography Camera

Slow Photography - David McCourt - www.dmccourt.com.

Another great concept for Photography Junkies. I was surfing forums and Blogs and came across this cool design by David McCourt for a Mobile camera Mod. I collect old cameras, but have a passion for new technology. This grabbed my eye. You just drop in your mobile phone and give it that medium format camera feel. Not sure if this is something that would hit the market, but if it does, I would be so tempted on snatching one of these just for fun. I would take it out, walking around taking pictures on an art walk or some other event. This is the type of thing that would actually draw subjects in, due to pure curiosity. Check out more at David's Website at: www.dmccourt.com

.

Beyond David's design for a cool camera box, he is a talented photographer with some nice edgy images. David is a UK based photographer in Scotland. I really dig his Portraits and band photos with their rather dark ominous feel.  So if you are looking for a portrait photographer or a Wedding Photographer in the UK, check him out. Don't worry his dark ominous feel doesn't cross over to his wedding images. Also check out this video by David of one of his earlier designs.

So cool. Reminds me of my art school days. See more of David's behind the scenes videos Here.

Canon 35mm F/2 on the Trail

Panoramic, ISO 160, f2.8(mistake) 1/1600 (Pay attention to your settings)

Ok, after finally taking this lens out for a test run, I was happy with the results. I like the feel of a "normal" lens.  I have a 50mm, which a lot of photographers have. Mine is a f1.4. However, I run a ASP-C sensor, so what is normal on say a 5D or a 35mm is not on the cropped sensor.  And like many who shoot with an ASP-C you might think it looks pretty normal to you.  As a 7D owner, and previous owner of a 40D, 20D, and a Rebel 300D, you get use to the focal length of your lenses and until you switch to a full frame, you are always at a loss, without really knowing it. So I decide after an article I read about shooting panoramic images with a normal lens, to find a truer  normal for my ASP-C camera.  (For about the search and options for a normal lens: http://zehphotoblog.blogspot.com/2011/03/going-normal-with-35mm-lens-on-7d-for.html)

ISO 160, f2.8(mistake) 1/800

So I took this out on the trail into the Superstition mountains, in Arizona.  I took a variety of landscape images, including a panoramic. Now I did have to hand hold the panoramic so the results are not that great, mainly because I usually shoot a panoramic on a tripod, with a Nodal Ninja. On this day I didn't bring my extra equipment. I was hiking with some new people, and I didn't want them to have to stop for me, or for me to lose my group as it was my first experience on this trail (Hieroglyphics Trail.) Next time, I will go out on my own, since I know the hike, but temps are already getting ready to hit the mid 90's two weeks into March.  This hike starts in the desert, so the heat factor with added equipment rather sucks. Lucky that day was only in the low 70's but the next day was already jumping into the 80's. (Spring in Arizona, is actually springing from the 70's to the 100's in like 2 to 3 weeks) Anyway, I digress.  So I did take a number of photos, mainly with my newly converted 40D IR. The shots were stunning (ok that's my opinion, but many others thought they were great too.)  I shot a couple of compositions I really liked, but I was rushing and not paying attention to my f/stop which I had at 2.8. Duh! Not good when you want a large depth of field in a landscape shot.  Nevertheless, if it wasn't for my screw up this was a champ for a lens.  

ISO 160, f8(much better) 1/250

The lens makes a little noise, but overall not enough to scare anything off. It focuses quick and accurately. And if you are looking for a decent, fast, and Normal lens for an ASP-C sensor-ed camera, I would definitely recommend this one.  If you can afford the high end version which is the 35mm f/1.4 for $1400, go for it, but if you want something in at about $310, I would jump on this one.

ISO 160, f/8, 1/200

I often will shoot at 160 instead of 100, due to Canon's slightly off ISO's seem to be there prime ISO's which get a little better quality from what I have read.